Such is the passage of time, Too fast to fold.

I’m down to my last couple days in the Balkans before making my return to Europe this week! I made a quick two night stop in Mostar after leaving Sarajevo. Mostar was nearly destroyed in the 90s war, but has bounced back and acts as a symbol of the strength and resilience of the people. The main attraction in Mostar is the Stari Most (old bridge). It was commissioned during Ottoman occupation, destroyed during the war, and reconstructed in the decade following the end of the conflict. Tourists and locals alike flock to the flanks of the bridge, or to the riverside below, in hopes of watching one of the famous bridge divers take a leap off of the structure into the fast flowing waters below. In the morning before I left Mostar for Split I was accompanied by and an American traveller in breaking into the “sniper’s tower.” The seven-story former bank building is still one of the tallest buildings in Mostar - it was used by gunmen during the war to strike down opponents and citizens alike. It was sobering to imagine how different the empty shell of a building would have looked twenty two short years ago. The building has since become a place for expression, with graffiti artists decorating the desolate interior. One of the more poignant was a crudely scribed message inviting visitors to rate this place on tripadvisor. It was a tongue in cheek reminder of the people that lost their lives as a result of the bullets that exited from the building. I survived an evening thunderstorm on my way from Mostar to Split. The rain began just as I was finishing preparing my dinner - I had to rush to finish setting up my tent before the storm began in earnest! My tent is beginning to fail a little bit. There is a spot or two at the top where the weather seal is letting a little water through, as well as a number of pinholes in the floor of the tent where I mistakenly set it up over thorns in the past. That said, I think I have gotten more than my money’s worth out of the tent! I bought it five years ago for going treeplanting in Prince George - used it for around three months in 2013. On this trip I have slept in my tent for over 100 nights! I believe the night before last was night 101, if my count is correct! For a while I wasn’t really “feeling” Croatia. Dubrovnnik was busy and expensive, and the main draws in both Split and Zadar appeared to be the old town areas. Once you’ve seen one old town, you’ve kinda seen them all. I was given some respite and some affection for Croatia after spending more time in a couple different National Parks. Between Split and Zadar I had the chance to visit Krka. Krka boasts some small walking trails in and around a beautiful waterfall! It is one of only a few places where you are allowed to swim in the river beneath the waterfall as well! Between Zadar and Zagreb I passed through at least two parks - the first was climbing up from sea-level up to 950m in order to get inland to Plitvice National Park. The draw here is waterfalls as well - the rain kept me from getting out and actually walking around - but I was able to see a couple waterfalls from the road! (Saved myself the 150 kuna admission fee). I actually spent the last five days in a row on the bike, cycling roughly 500km from Split up to Zagreb. I am tired and quite ready for a couple days off the bike! I’ve been feeling a little under the weather for almost a month. Nothing too serious. Just a congested nose. It’s a little difficult to tell whether it’s the cold I picked up after Istanbul that has held on, or just my seasonal allergies that have flared up. I’m going to try to find a pharamacy to get something to help me out. I don’t mind it too much while cycling, but it’s much more apparent and annoying when off the bike. I’m headed off to Budapest on Tuesday and should arrive on Thursday afternoon. Then, on the weekend I will have my first visitor!! I went to university with Chris in Winnipeg - he has since gone on to study law and has found himself an internship position in Germany over the summer. He’s going to meet me for the weekend in Budapest! I’m really excited! He’ll be my first familiar face since meeting up with my friend Sarah in Luton in September! Heading to Hungary this week puts me back in the Schengen Zone for round two. It’ll give me around a month to get up to Kaliningrad for the World Cup. Time wise, it works out perfectly. I have one month of travel in Europe before the World Cup, then just over two months from my departure from Kaliningrad to cycle to the UK to meet my parents in Scotland! I’m hoping my legs can cash the cheques my brain is writing!